Just add water

RÉSUMÉ :

Just Add Water is the remarkable story of Marzo’s rise to the top of the pro surfing world—and the personal trials he overcame in making it there. Marzo endured a difficult childhood. He was a colicky baby who his mother found could be soothed only with water. Later, as he entered school, his undiagnosed Asperger’s made it tough for him to relate to his peers and fit in, but his relationship with the wave was elemental. Marzo could always turn to surfing, the only place where he truly feltat peace.

 

Écrit par Clay Marzo and Robert Yehling

$0.00

UGS : 15.9 Catégories: ,
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